Salang Pass Avalanche

by Tad Thompson

You may have read in the Feb. 9, 2010, news that an avalanche, two miles wide, killed 28 people as it roared across Afghanistan's Salang Pass.

I had the opportunity to ride from Kabul to Mazar-I-Sharif over that Himalayan pass in November 2008.

At the road's highest point, about 12,000 feet above sea level, is an unventilated two-mile long tunnel. Traffic in that tunnel is pictured above. I spent some time hoping our vehicle doesn't break down in the black tunnel with the trapped fumes.

When you emerge on the west end of the tunnel, there is an absolutely spectacular Himalayan Mountain view, right.

We drove for what seemed miles before we reached an elevation low enough to support tree growth, and even at that the trees were few and far between.

Truck traffic was very heavy on the pass and truckers were pulled over "at the side of the road" -- meaning, they pulled toward the right side of the right lane -- to chain their tires, or work on broken-down trucks while warming a meal over little portable stoves. The icy driving was very, very hazardous.

The trek became more interesting as the brakes of our armored SUV overheated. The professional driver controlled our speed with the standard transmission and we dodged traffic with incredible grace.

About a mile outside the little village of Malkan, the driver suggested we walk our way to safety. In Malkan was a seriously-real Afghan "roadside diner". I doubt that many Americans have dropped in there for a bite.

The "tables" are large poured concrete blocks, softened with a covering of equally-large Afghan rugs. You take off your shoes and try not to get your feet on the rug, as courses of goat, rice and a whole variety of spices were presented. Family-style, of course. The taste was magnificent.

The brakes of our SUV cooled as we dined. We hit the road.

Mazar-I-Sharif became a whole other adventure.

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